BEEF LIVER BALLS
CHICKEN MEAT BALLS
CROC FORE BONE
CROC HIND BONE
KANGAROO MEAT BALLS
KANGAROO JERKY LONG
LING FISH SKINS
LARGE PORK TWIST
JUMBO PORK ROLL
MINI DOG BISCUITS
The world's simplest healthiest guide to a raw meat dog diet
Let's face it, everyone is busy and it seems like the only way you can feed your dog properly is to buy a proctor gamble or mars confectionary company bag of grains - they are two of the largest global "dog food" companies in the world after all.
You buy pellets or wet food in cans, because they tell you that it is the best thing you should do. They have tables of nutrients on the back of their packs. It is very convenient, though for decent quality you will be paying at least $15 per kilo of pellets that are mostly 70% plus cheap grains.
Really what you are doing is buying a sack of wheat or rice and saving time, but really badly short changing your dog. I have spent many hours researching and writing articles about the value of meat in a dog's diet, because the proteins supply bio available amino acids that grains and vegetables cant do, and because dogs are carnivores and deserve 90- 95% meat in their diet.
You can read many articles on the web about raw feeding and the benefits, about the corporate conspiracy for profit in exchange for your dogs best health - but the reality is that it does take time and a little knowledge to make a proper raw meat diet for your dog. But after you read the following, you will know all you need to know.
If you want the full blown article with nutrition tables and links and appendix here it is: https://www.healthydogtreats.com.au/dog-nutrition/129-ultimate-dog-diet
The world's most simple complete nutrition raw meat dog diet
Basically its about the ratio of meat to other meat by-products plus a few other additives. Here is the basic three components you need:
- 80% raw muscle meat (chicken, lamb or beef) some people prefer to cook chicken.
- 10-15% offal (lamb liver or kidney)
- + 5-10% bone (raw chicken necks, lamb ribs).
HOW HARD IS THAT? Not at all.
The reason you use meat its because dog food pellets have 30% meat at most, and the protein in grain used to meet the table requirements is not as bioavailable as meat (dogs can't fully digest and use the amino acids in the veggie protein).
The THREE other supplements you need in a dogs diet.
In the above article (see full article in the link) I go into comparing the nutrition from a raw meat and by-product dog diet with the American affco table that they just to justify calling pellets dog food.
The troubling part is that the aafco food trials and corporate input makes their bias towards using grains such a scam, that its hard to know if you can trust the table at all ..
The main difference in table form of a manufactured dog food diet and a raw diet is that it is impossible to meet the aafco table minimum level for all the minerals and vitamins UNLESS you add something to the mix yourself (just like they do in the pellets).
1 I add ONE multivitamin (blackmores sustain). If you use a lower amount multivitamin such as Centrum you could use two tablets per 20 Kg dog. The reason I use these is not just because of the affco tables but because the pastures that cows graze in have been farmed for so long it is very possible that they could be deficient in some minerals. Here is info you may like to use on how I calculated the dosage: https://www.healthydogtreats.com.au/dog-nutrition/133-human-vitamins
2 I also give my dog: 6 x omega 3 fish oil capsules (1000mg) and 12 ml of sunflower oil. These levels are the ones required for a 20 Kg dog. Anything smaller or bigger just multiply by their weight proportion. Here is my full article on the reason all pellets and raw diets require Omega 3 and 6 in proper ratios: https://www.healthydogtreats.com.au/dog-nutrition/124-omega-3
3 My vet (and the nutrition bible I reference) convinced me that dogs require specific fibre in their diet to maintain optimum intestine health. Without High fibre kibble my dogs stools are often runny meaning he is losing nutrition and might have a weak bowel.
Hard core raw feeders would consider this a cop out, but unless your dog eats the whole of the animal - hooves, fur, beaks etc, it is not going to get sufficient animal fibre.
This means I give my dog 15-20% pellets/ kibble of the highest fibre pellets I can find (hills) so keep his intestine healthy. https://www.healthydogtreats.com.au/dog-nutrition/135-dog-kibble
I have researched how to feed my dog on a raw meat diet for years. I have consulted with experts, talked to vets, visited many sites and read dog nutrition books. If the information above is of value to you, then that is great. As always the standard disclaimer applies, check if this diet is suitable for your dog before you commence, and if you commence transition slowly.
Many manufactured dog blogs and articles suggest that people feed their dog home-made food as a labour or love - as if its deficient and quaint. They are condescending and want to manipulate you feeding your dog an inferior homogenous grain or carb mix FROM THEM, for the whole of your dogs profit making life.
I created my dog's diet to be the healthiest dog diet on earth, regardless of cost or inconvenience in having to cut up some meat each night. Though the cost isn't necessarily more much more than quality kibble.
I know that dogs are meant to eat meat as their basic food, and that it needs to be balanced just like when they catch and kill their prey in the wild. The THREE additives I use (on top of meat, offal and bones) are ONLY used because they are necessary from what Food I can obtain from my local butcher.
You could add trace elements of berries and this and that antioxidant if you want, There are many tricks and bells and whistles that "dog food" companies use to misdirect you (like a good magician) from the reality that they are selling you a bag of cheap grain, made tasty baking and covering in oil and sugar.
A side note is that dog's like all animals like sugars, and they are scavengers and they will eat what their master eats. People will feed their dogs carrots and broccoli (for no good nutrition reason) and some dogs will eat this - however they would NEVER eat these things in the wild.
A grain or vegetable based diet is WRONG for a carnivore dog that evolved from wolves 20,000 years ago. Their outsides were manipulated by man, but their digestive track and nutrient requirements stay the same as that of the wolf. Again read the blog for my proofs ..
The FOURTH additive I recommend to the above mix is meat based healthy dog treats as sold on this site. They are either 80% or 100% meat based. I usually use roo jerky, roo tendons or tuna jerky because these are meats that are organic, very high in nutrition and not part of my dog's regular diet, so adding nutrition diversity.
To do so, I simply reduce the main meat component of my dog's food for the day by the one third of the amount of healthy dog treats I am going to give my dog (one third because wet meat is 75% water).
Yes, my dog is the luckiest healthiest dog on earth, and yours can be too ..